Travel Jewelry Roll
|Travel Jewelry Roll|
This week I’m going to discuss one of my projects from start to finish. From the point when I tried to buy what I needed, to giving up and trying to find a pattern, to biting the bullet and creating my own pattern, to finally making it. Notice the progression is the opposite of the more common process of making something and then desperately trying to find a use for it:
|Fancy Tiger Crafts|
|Typical travel wallet tutorial Sew Crafty Jess|
Originally I didn’t want to make anything, but all the travel organizers I saw online would occupy too much space in my suitcase and didn’t resolve the tangling problem. Once I realized the sad truth that I wasn’t going to able to buy what I needed, I looked through Pinterest, Etsy, and did a general Google search for patterns with no luck. Every project I found used some arrangement of zippered compartments and I would need one for each necklace plus one for earrings. My older daughter uses zip lock bags to store her jewelry, which is pretty much the same thing. FYI, the tutorial for the clutch to the right is good although the end result isn't what I was looking for. I've put vinyl pockets on all sorts of things and this tutorial is quite clear on how to do this.
This whole project fell off my radar for ages because I had no idea how to keep the necklaces separated. One morning at breakfast I suddenly flashed on the solution. Here is the pattern and the finished roll.
The solution was to weave ribbon (or cord) through some type of hole and then hang my necklaces from the ribbons. Here is a close-up:
There were multiple considerations in the design of this project:
- How can I make this as easy and as convenient as possible to use?
- What is the average necklace width? This determines the distance between the rows of holes. I decided to loop the longer necklaces through the ribbons twice, which has worked very well.
- Generally speaking, what is the drop depth of a necklace (how far will it hang down)? The drop length determines how much space is needed between each set of holes.
- How many necklaces do I want to carry verses how long I can realistically make this thing and still keep it practical? I had to face harsh reality and decide how much jewelry I really need to take.
- What type of hole should I use? Grommets or buttonholes? Grommets maintain the project’s shape better, but you can make buttonholes in many shapes and sizes and they can be stabilized with interfacing. I went with grommets because I had them lying around looking for a use. It was very difficult to place them precisely as you can see from the photo above. The hole punch is in a blind spot on the grommet tool and so it was difficult to line it up with my mark on the fabric. I’m going to experiment with different punch techniques next time I use grommets or go with a pretty buttonhole.
- What is the optimum distance between holes in each pair? This was a total shot in the dark. It has to be easy get my fingers under the ribbon to attach the necklace, but if the holes are too far apart the roll will hold fewer necklaces.
- How rigid does the travel roll need to be? The roll needs to have some body from side to side or it will be too floppy to be easy to use, but using flat sides and folding it instead of rolling requires more precise planning and measurement. I decided to use fusible batting, which has nice body and to roll the organizer.
- How am I going to keep this thing closed? Snaps? Velcro? Toggles? Ties? Ties are by far the easiest to sew so I cut myself some slack and went with that.
- Structurally, what was a good distance between the hole and the edge? This was a total guess based on what I thought would look nice.
- Do I want to add a compartment for earrings? How big do I want it? Absolutely I wanted a zippered compartment, but I balanced that against how much of a pain in the ass it is to add one. Eventually, I realized that I’d have to carry my earrings in something and it would be easier to have everything in one place. The next time I make this, the compartment will go at the top because the necklaces will be more protected if they are on the inside the roll. If I had wanted to carry bracelets, I would have made the compartment deeper and factored that into my calculations.
- Wash at your own risk. This sucker is not going to be fun to iron. The organizer would be easier to iron if I had decorated the back differently and used vertical or horizontal lines of stitching to quilt it somewhat. I love the look of the giant heart, but depending on the likelihood of the organizer getting dirty, you may want to consider other decoration and using cord instead of ribbon. The organizer can probably go through the wash, particularly if you use a lingerie bag, but dry it flat.
I already had virtually everything I needed for this project and the beautiful machine embroidery is a freebee from Urban Threads. The only thing I bought was the ribbon. I'm not happy with the stiffness in the placement of the initials. Unless some research turns up helpful advice, I’ll skip the monograming in the future.
When I make organizers for my daughters, I’ll put together a tutorial with actual pattern pieces, but for now here’s a brief overview:
- Front fabric
- Back fabric
- Fusible batting
- Piping or binding
- Ribbon or cord
- Contrasting thread
- Fray Check
- Zipper, can be longer than necessary
- Optional: grommets
- Optional: machine embroidery design
- Optional: embroidery thread
- Embroider the back piece, then cut to size and fuse the batting to it.
- Cut the front piece.
- Cut the vinyl the width of the fabric and the height you want plus at least one inch on all sides.
- Cut lengthwise completely across the strip of vinyl an inch from the top edge. These two pieces form the compartment opening.
- Attach the zipper to the vinyl pieces. All you have to do is to topstitch the vinyl to the sides of the zipper. Close zipper. Square up the finished compartment if needed.
- Carefully clamp the vinyl compartment to the right side of the front fabric with small binder clips. Make sure you place the zipper slide just far enough from the edge of the fabric that it doesn’t get caught in the seam allowance with about a ¼ inch gap between the slide and the seam.
- Use whatever decorative stitch you like to attach the pouch to the front of the roll. Just remember that you can’t use a dense stitch on vinyl without risking tearing it. I used blanket stitch in a thread color that matched the zipper.
- Cut off any vinyl and zipper that extends beyond the edge of the fabric.
- Decide how difficult you want to make this for yourself. Do you want to add piping or binding? Projects like this look much more finished and hold their shape better if you go the extra mile and use one of the two. They’re both a pain.
- I basted the piping and the ribbon ties in place on the right side of front piece before sewing the front to the back because piping always moves around during stitching. Overlap the ends of the piping somewhere inconspicuous and don’t cut them to fit yet. That’s asking for trouble. Leave the ribbons fairly long so you can adjust the length once the entire project is finished.
- CAREFULLY sew the front to the back with right sides together leaving a gap to turn everything right side out. I left the whole top end open due to the thickness of the fabric sandwich (making it harder to turn), but I’d probably leave a smaller gap next time. You will need a special foot to attach piping. Some machines have a zipper foot you can use because the foot allows you to stitch next to the cord. My machine (Viking Designer Diamond) needs a dedicated piping foot. Adjust your needle position so that it catches the fabric sandwich in just the right spot. I’d test this on a swatch first. Seriously, it’s worth it. Fixing piping is a major pain.
- Pull the organizer through the opening so it's right side out. Once you're happy with the piping, hand or machine stitch the opening closed.
- Mark the grommet holes.
- Insert the grommets. Good luck with this. There’s no fixing the holes once you make them.
- Thread ribbon through the grommets leaving extra length at each end.
- Tie off the ribbons at each end of the roll and trim them on a slant. Put a thin line of Fray Check along the cut edges.
- Roll the clutch and tie it a few times to get a feel for how long you need the ribbons tying it closed to be. Once you have a look you like, and with the clutch still rolled and tied, cut the ribbons leaving a fairly long tails to ensure it's always easy to tie. Trim the ends on a slant and put a thin line of Fray Check along the cut edges.
I loved making this travel jewelry organizer and use it all the time. Notice that it’s not a cover for something that doesn’t need one (cozy), won’t gather dust as yet another useless knickknack, sit around waiting for a use and eventually get tossed, doesn’t make something that's straightforward more difficult (most handmade coffee cup insulators for example), or is so difficult to use that I'd never use it. This is what I mean when I say that making things is awesome and rewarding and there’s absolutely no need to make crap just to make something. The bigger crafting blogs have to continually come up with projects to retain their advertising revenue (determined by the number of pins, subscribers, tweets, etc.) so they post a lot of things that aren’t worth making or only take a good photo. Many of those blog posts are worth reading to learn a technique or find out about a new product. Just don’t make those terrible projects.